Jump to content

Gollee's model painting tutorial.

Recommended Posts

NOTE: Pictures are big.

This is a picture of my kit; you could get away with not having all of it; but brush-wise, you at least need a big one (Bottom one), a dry brush (Third from top) and a detail brush (Top).



This is what I'm painting today; a Flamespyre Phoenix from Warhammer Age of Sigmar.



You also need a battilion of paints if you really want to do it right, here's mine:


Blues, modelling sand, modelling flock (Grass)

Greys and white, silvers

Bronze, dark washes, oranges,

Browns, greens, reds,

Dry paints (more on those later), bright metals, blacks.

Right, first off, we get the base brush, which is the largest, thickest one; and we paint everything black. EVERYTHING. We don't remove anything from their trays, as you will see in the following pictures, everything stays firmly attached to their plastic holders until you begin to build it.



Now that it is all basecoated, and dried, we can start with the fun part. Dry brushing. Dry brushing uses special "dry" paints; like this one.



Dry paints are like a solid mush, rather than the liquid of normal acrylic paints; and you need to be very careful with them, as you need very, very little on your brush (generally a specific type, called a dry brush, it's the third from the top in my picture.) then you just run it over the part you are painting, not painting the entire thing; fast sweeping motions that only touch the highest points of the model; bringing out the features of the plastic/metal/whatever, like this:



Now, if you are looking for a quick, good-looking model, you could build it after drybrushing it, and you would end up with something like this:



Now, you paint it however you want; I will start with the wings, using these colours:



First, you want to get the colour you want lowest on the model, for me this is the Mechrite red, with the white lid. I'm going to use one of my middling brushes to cover the phoenix flames. Don't be afraid to be heavy with the paint, the only thing you want to see of the black and white are intonations within the new colour.



Now that I have them red, I am going to begin with my orange paint, Troll Slayer, to bring a more flamey look to it. I don't want to smother the red, but I do want the orange to be prominent; so I'll use a slightly finer brush than before.



Now I can work on adding depth to the colour; so let's move onto some Tau Light Ocre. Using an even finer brush. This helps to alleviate some of the vividness of the orange, which is unwanted, even on a bird made of fire.



As you can see, this is also bringing out the final pattern for the model.



Now that the main base of the colour is done, we can start with the detail; for which I will be using my smallest brush, a layer brush, but I will be using it as a dry brush, using my last three paints, Scab Red, Balthasar Gold, and Hashut Copper.

The red is now on, as you can see, it's there to highlight the snapping flames of the wings; I was a bit more vigourous with my brushing than I would be with normal drybrush; as I am now going to drybrush the other two colours ontop, to layer the paints. Copper first, the gold.



Copper has been added now; it wasn't added to really change the colour, but to give a metallic sheen, and to help bring the other colours together where they may clash.



Gold and finishing touches done (Runefang steel on the tail), I've been a bit heavy handed with the gold and copper; but overall, I'm happy with the effect.



Since I just spent almost 5 hours on this thing; I will post a second part tomorrow.

Edited by Guest
Link to comment

I use the sprue to manipulate them without messing up the wet paint with clumsy fingers; once they are painted, I cut them off, file down any nubs, do a paint repair on the area, then glue it together.

I never really had an issue with the paint and primer affecting the glue; if the plastic glue doesn't hold, I generally get annoyed and go to super glue; but that is rare.

Link to comment

For Necrons, no. There isn't really any models that need it. Since the newest codex, guass beats tesla in every category. The only models I could see using it are Wraiths (If they haven't got Whip Coils, you are using them wrong), Spyders (They're cheap as hell and poor at range; just get more, don't give them guns), Over/Lords (Your army is already phenomenal at shooting; Lords and Overlords should be carrying can openers without exception; unless you are playing some REALLY low point games), and Tomb Blades; where it's really a choice between the Particle Beamer and the Guass Blaster; both are fun, but the blaster is significantly more useful, unless you are against Nids or Orcs.

For Chaos; my Defiler, Forgefiend and Hellbrutes all have magnetised limbs.

For High Elves, no, there is little customisation apart from for the HQs, and most of them are too thin to easily use magnets.

Link to comment
  • 4 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...